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The plains of Brabant

— A hot early summer day in Flemish and Walloon Brabant, walking on cobbled roads that stretch to the horizon and beyond.”

Ter Cammenthoeve, Hamme-Mille

On a hot day such as this, travellers will be grateful for the intermittent tree cover while the tracks and roads of Flemish and Walloon Brabant stretch out to the horizon and beyond.

Grassy paths and cobbled roads snake through deep gullies between the vast fields. Centuries-old farms crumble imperceptibly in the afternoon heat. Horses seek shelter under stout and leafy lime trees.

Trails are well-trodden but the walker might never see another soul. In the little roadside chapels, votive candles are burning but who came here to light them? On these plains, there are only birdsong and the endless crops swaying in the breeze.

• Walking route: Hamme-Mille – Mollendaalbos – Bierbeek – Opvelp – Hamme-Mille (loop) detailed commentary
• Distance: 22km

Detailed commentary

Larger map of this route

Head north from the church on the aptly-named Rue des Messes. Take the first left onto the Vieux Chemin de Louvain, passing a restaurant and go straight uphill beyond the houses. At the top of the hill, turn sharp right onto a cobbled road (Rue de Bierbeek). Go straight on this road between fields, ignoring all junctions, passing through a large farm and then running alongside the Mollendaalbos before taking a left at the fork, onto a track that runs into the woodland.

When the track reaches a crossroads with a house on the right and a car park ahead, turn left and go gently uphill, turning right soon after at a gate. This narrower track runs out of and then alongside the wood. At the next crossroads of trails, turn right and go downhill on a track that bends to the left in the direction of houses. A fork follows soon after with a little chapel at its apex, so take the right fork and continue gently downhill. At the next crossroads in a gully, go straight until arriving at the road with an large farm courtyard opposite. Turn left onto the road and just after the farm, turn right onto a narrow, marked path running alongside a house and garden. This path runs into trees and crosses a small brick bridge. Go right after the bridge and eventually join the road (Krabbesheidestraat), continuing on it alongside vineyards.

When the road reaches a t-junction with the Opvelpsetraat, turn left and follow the pavement beside it for a short time, before carefully crossing and following a path on the opposite side of the road (Kleineheidestraat) that runs alongside to a small field. This path heads gently uphill into broader fields before reaching a t-junction of tracks. Turn left here and go uphill: a distinctive water tower should by now be visible on the right. When the track starts to flatten out, go right onto a grassy path that runs toward houses and on reaching a paved drive, turn left and go downhill. At the main road, turn right and follow the pavement that runs uphill alongside it.

After the water tower, a thin line of trees shades a narrow, grassy path that branches off to the right. Take this path and follow it straight without deviations, beyond a signposted crossroads and two successive tracks, to the right and left respectively. Reaching the road, cross over and continue straight as far as a t-junction. Turn left here and follow the track as it bends into, then out of, a wood. At the next crossroads, turn right onto a broad track running southwest between fields.

Soon after crumbling (but officially listed) brick farm buildings, arrive at the road that runs through the village of Opvelp (Hoegaardsesteenweg). Cross over and go right on the pavement running alongside it. Pass the village church on the opposite side and at the next crossroads on which there is a beautifully restored house, turn left into Velpestraat and pass the Jezuitenhof on the right. At the next crossroads, turn left onto a cobbled road running gently uphill (Weg Tussen Weiden) and pass another crumbling but listed farm complex – the Berkenhof – on the right. Go straight at the fork and the road becomes a track, bending off to the right. Always keeping the Berkenhof to the right side, go right at the next crossroads onto Perrestraat. Go straight, past a junction on the right, then beyond a crossroads and the road becomes a broad track. Take the first left into a slightly narrower track running between fields.

Continuing gently uphill, head straight through a wood and then descend to a farm and the road (Rue de Mollendael). Turn right here and go uphill on cobbles, taking the first right at another farm onto the Ruelle de Tirlemont. The track gets rougher as it heads gently downhill then begins to bend to the left and uphill as far as a line of trees. At the crossroads here, go sharp right and downhill on a cobbled track in a deep, tree-lined gully. On reaching a t-junction at a farm, turn right and pass the Chapelle Rond-Chêne, going straight on the Rue du Stoquoy. Take the first left onto another track running between fields and go straight as far as a crossroads in a gully. Turn left here and go straight over a crossroads and gently uphill to a large stables complex and a line of trees. Descend through the trees and turn left at the next junction, arriving very soon after at another crossroads with a large chapel dedicated to Saint Cornélis. Turn right here onto the Rue des Boeufs and follow the road until it bends to the left: here instead continue straight on a track and soon after turn left going downhill into the trees.

The road becomes a residential street and arrives at a t-junction with the Rue de la Justice. Turn right onto this, keeping to the verges which allow enough room for pedestrians. Go downhill as the road bends left, then when it forms a triangle with other roads, turn right onto a path running alongside a small river with meadows at left. Follow this path straight as it crosses another small river and eventually emerges at a road (Rue de Tourinnes). Cross over carefully and follow the road right, going straight until the church of Hamme-Mille reappears at a pedestrian crossing.