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Lower Lesse

— Before reaching the Meuse, the Lesse river flows through a long, deep and green valley bordered by limestone cliffs.”

Château de Walzin, Lesse valley

The Lesse river flows from the Province de Luxembourg up to the Meuse at Anseremme. Unusually, it flows underground near Rochefort and the flow of water emerges only twenty four hours later further along the route at the Trou d’Han. The caves cut by the Lesse are of the same limestone as the cliffs along the river in this lower section.

The Château de Walzin stands majestically atop one such cliff near Furfooz. There have been several incarnations, due to the fault of successive owners being politically on the losing side. The sturdy building presently on this precarious perch is largely the result of restorations done in the last century.

• Walking route: Furfooz – Walzin – Hulsonniaux – Gare de Gendron-Celles – Furfooz (loop) detailed commentary
• Distance: 20km

Detailed commentary

Larger map of this route

At the top of the roundabout in Furfooz, turn right onto the Rue des Aiguilles de Chaleux. The street becomes a track and eventually forks. Take the left fork running downhill through the trees, gently at first then steeper until the path bottoms out at the river Lesse. Go under the railway bridge and look carefully for the narrow path on the left that climbs back up to railway. Cross the railway bridge on a path running beside the line and descend again to the river bank. Follow the trail under the bridge and then by the river with occasional glimpses of the Château de Walzin. At the next junction, a tree-lined trail to the right leads down to the river with a great view of the château but walkers opting for this will need to retrace back to this point, then go straight. Those who choose not to do this should now turn left.

The track crosses a railway bridge and heads uphill, eventually out of the woods. At a crossroads with a concrete road and a picnic spot opposite, turn left. Take the next left at a t-junction and go straight as far a noticeable broadening of the road marked by a solitary tree, at which turn sharp right onto a field track. Go straight, gently uphill, and continue after joining a more solid track as far as a crossroads with a chapel. Turn right here on a wide track running between fields, going gently uphill before descending into woodland. When the track splits, take the left fork that runs along the edge of the woods at left and fields at right. Take the next left onto the Chemin de Falmagne, with the fields now on the left side.

The track becomes a quiet, minor road, going straight over a crossroads and then downhill and right at the next fork before reaching the main road with another chapel on the corner. Cross over and continue straight down the Rue du Centre. Turn left onto the Rue de Marteau and, when the road splits, take the left fork back to the main road. Turn right onto the verge of the main road for a moment then carefully cross over and follow the Route du Ry de Vesse on the left. This minor road runs steeply downhill into woodlands. Follow it downhill as far as a little bridge but rather than crossing the bridge, take the track to the right as it runs downhill into a deep wooded valley. Take the first left which runs down to a stream with a small wooden bridge crossing it, before becoming a narrow path running along the left edge of the valley as far as a road, onto which turn left.

Follow the road alongside the Lesse as far as a widening of the valley floor where, next to a railway bridge over the road, a narrow path runs through a field on the right with the railway line above left. Find a narrow path on the left that climbs the embankment under tree cover to the railway line. Cross the Lesse on the path running alongside the railway line with a tunnel ahead. Just after the bridge, a path on the right goes steeply back down the embankment to another narrow path next to the bank of the river. The path may appear to split several times, but always follow the line closest to the river until eventually it reaches a t-junction with a wide track (Rue du Camp Romain) slightly inland from the river. Turn right onto it.

The road ends at a pavilion overlooking to the river. Continue straight on a narrow path which, as earlier, splits frequently. There are some interesting rock features up on the left, while the rightmost trail continues beside the river. It doesn’t matter too much which path is taken, provided that the general direction is ahead with the river always in sight. At the end of the woodland, there is a field. Follow its right edge and at the far side, a wider track opens out. Continue straight and arrive at the wide yard/car park of a kayak hire business which gets very busy in summer. Follow the edge of the yard with the railway line at left as far as the road and railway bridge. Go under the bridge and carefully cross over into the railway station car park below the Auberge de la Lesse. With the main road at left, walk to the far end of the car park and a slip road onto the main road. Carefully cross over and follow the edge of the main road right as far a small clearing on the left with a footbridge. Cross the footbridge and turn left thereafter onto a long, rocky and quite steep track.

Follow the track as it eventually flattens out and then, emerging from the woodland, goes uphill again. At the level top, go straight at a junction of paths and descend again quite steeply into woodlands before reaching a road (Rue du Camp Romain again). Turn right here and follow it uphill and back into the village.