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Grand Veymont

— A day hike to climb the highest mountain in the Vercors chain, the Grand Veymont at 2,341 metres.”

I’m writing this on a quiet, restful day during which the most we’ve done has been a visit to the supermarket down in Die. The old town is short of breath in this decidedly unalpine heat.

No need to feel lazy: such rest was truly earned. Yesterday we climbed the 2,391m Grand Veymont, one of the Vercors’ highest peaks.

Having driven the neverending switchbacks of the Col de Rousset and up a hair-raising, seven-kilometre singletrack road, we donned our boots and set off on a less-travelled and probably more arduous walking route to most of those with whom we shared the summit.

• Distance: 22km
• Overview: scrambling over rocks, steep climbs and descents, narrow trails; beautiful views, plenty of nature
• Caution: risk of rockfalls, lack of water in this region

Larger map of this route

On the approach, we were following an older local couple. Whenever we caught up and paused for breath, the authoritative madame would point out far-off wildlife that we might otherwise have missed.

Later they dropped us and we lost sight of them until the summit, where I had to admit to their sincere amusement that this wasn’t Flanders.

As I donned my warm layer, le plat pays was indeed many moons away, though from up here I rather thought that I could see it.

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Grand Veymont

Climbing the highest mountain (2,346m) in the Vercors chain.

At every step of the mountainside, whether on brittle white rock or thin brown soil, there existed a self-contained little world inhibited by wildflowers, tufty grasses and insects. Over the rockier sections, I imagined the course of an invisible stream with the near-vertical pathway as its bed, but apart from the brief residue of already forgotten snows, this is dry country.

Apart from the helpful couple, there must have been fifty others at this densely populated summit, faces flushed with heat and varying degrees of pride at their latest achievement. A cold wind blew as each walker sought out a spot to eat their casse-croute. Fortunately, there were plenty of panoramic vistas to go round.

To the north, the spine of the Vercors could be seen stretching into the haze as far as Grenoble. To the south, the Glandasse and the prominent Dent de Die.

The descent was steep and rocky and coming down can be just as tiring as going up on trails like this. As on the way up, it was essential to guard against rockfalls.

Below the Pas des Chattons, through Bonnevau and the Cabane Bergerie beyond that, the extraordinary number of flies was sometimes unpleasant.

We ended the day by descending on another Route Forestière, this time the Rachier, passing one of the very few water sources in the area before reaching the trees and the Maison de la Coche.