Vienna

— A visit to the venerable city of Vienna: brittle, elegant and always deep in thought.”

Postsparkasse building, Vienna

City of Freud and sang froid. City of baroque buildings and baroque desserts. City of deep thinkers and wine drinkers.

Coffee and newspapers and a glass of tap water. Coffee and travel maps and middle-aged friends. Coffee and fearsome old women and their yappy dogs and eternal card games, played in the vitrine glare.

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Speaking a softer, music box German. Take it with starchy manners and a friendly formality and a lot of diminutives. Take it with cream.

Intricate, pretty cream slices that actually taste as good as they look. Russian girls that don’t.

City of culture and of cultures. Of rich and poor but mostly rich.

When Athens declined, Vienna one day took its place. And the Turks had them both for a time.

Hidden courtyards, dollhouse squares. Massive boulevards that go round and round like the Riesenrad lain down.

Don’t park here. Don’t cross here. English spoken here. Mozart lived here. Mozart died here.

Mozart’s music, his presence in empty parks and emptier parlours. Eat his chocolate, drink his liqueur, take a little bit of him home on your cold winter nights.

They played his Requiem here last month. Next month they’ll play John Cage and a jazz composer called Chick or Buddy. Another month, another delicious poster. The same subject with a new spin. Always new ideas in old Vienna.

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