MikePadgett.com

Trier

— Germany's oldest city, Trier was an important centre of the Roman Empire and sometime home to the Emperor himself.”

Driving down from Koeln, the valleys turn brown and then yellow. That yellow comes from hundreds of neatly packed rows of autumnal vines, plunging down steeply to the river below.

In the failing afternoon light, the glassy river surface is disturbed only by a water bird too far and too dim to determine.

It’s already dark by the time we pull into the city and at least three degrees colder than it was when we set off earlier. Fire-lit, low ceilinged taverns tempt passing visitors. There’s nowhere to hide even in a thick coat.

Trierer Dom

Next morning we visit the Dom, Germany’s oldest cathedral in this, Germany’s oldest city. There’s a service in progress – it’s Sunday of course – so we don’t get too far inside.

The Dom is built on the firm foundations of the ancient Roman city – which dates from about 30BC – and was itself founded in 326AD on a much bigger plan than we see today, which easily occupied the square in front.

Porta Nigra

The remains of the ancient city gate still stand today at the northern end of Trier.

The gate was built before 200AD but it has since been substantially reduced in size. The stone used in its construction has blackened over the centuries: the structure was already described as ‘black’ in medieval times.